The 2005 Merlot is medium ruby-colored with aromas and flavors of red currants and cherry. Drink this solid, well-balanced effort over the next 6 years. Novelty Hill is owned by venture capitalist Tom Alberg. He also owns Stillwater Creek Vineyard located on the Royal Slope of the Frenchman Hills which was planted in 2000. Last year the winery moved into its impressive new building in Woodinville. In addition to sharing the space with Januik Winery, Alberg also employs Mike Januik as winemaker for Novelty Hill. Tel. (425) 481-8317; www.noveltyhillwines.com

If Washington “owns” Merlot as a category in the U.S. (not that anyone cares at the moment), this confirms it. You get ripe, sweet, tangy red berry fruit, fresh acids, ripe tannins and toasty oak; there may not be a better value in the country. The way the oak is used is magnificent and adds layer after layer to the extended finish.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 90