The deep ruby-hued 2009 Gigondas Les Racines Vieilles Vignes offers a perfumed bouquet of crushed rocks, raspberries, black cherries, currants and hints of garrigue as well as spice box. Velvety-textured, opulent and long, with stunning purity and equilibrium, it should drink well for 10-15 years. (Not yet released)Now that partners Daniel Brunier and Kermit Lynch have gotten a full grasp of this complicated, cool climate terroir, Les Pallieres’ quality has soared. Two cuvees are being produced. The 2009 offerings are just a step behind the estate’s finest wines to date, the 2007s.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524