The 2005 Blaufrankisch Burgenland - a blend from various sites - both smells and tastes oceanic in its suggestions of brine and minerals, but ripe, lightly tart black berry and a deep beef marrow meatiness provide some depth and substance, collaborating on a satisfying, subtly saline finish. This relatively light-bodied (not to mention, in typical Velich fashion, decidedly Burgundian) expression of Blaufrankisch will offer versatile satisfaction over the next two or three years. Velich's 2006 reds look to be at least as successful as his 2004s, but I shall report on them only as a group, after all have been bottled. His 2005 Blaufrankisch collection testifies to the quality that was possible in a rain-plagued vintage, if one had well-drained and -ventilated soils, was prepared to wait on this late-ripening variety, and exercised stringent selection and impeccable vinification. All of the wines weighed in at under 13% alcohol (a few lots were lightly chaptalized) but do not taste deficient in ripeness.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com.
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