The Gambal 2006 Chassagne-Montrachet Maltroie (in tank when I tasted it) represents a departure from the preceding wines in this collection for its “cool” aromas of mint, coconut, iris, and lime; chalky, herbal, citric flavors; and long, refreshing, mineral-inflected finish. There is nothing lean about this, but it is sleek and refined, with no obvious sense of weight. I would not be surprised to see it develop nicely over 3-5 years. American Alex Gambal (about whom more can be found in issue 171) is gradually expanding his negociant activities while managing to purchase some excellent acreage as well. His 2006 collection in white at times reveals in high alcohol and heat the dangers of this vintage’s precipitant ripeness, but strikingly low pH by vintage standards helps in many cases to keep the wines lively and bright. Various importers

Beautifully put together, this white expresses its site with mineral, herb and savory elements, accented by apple, lemon and oak spice flavors. It's sleek and lingers on the finish. Drink now through 2018. 100 cases made. -BS