Hiedler’s 2004 Riesling Gaisberg was, he relates, another wine very slow to open up this spring and moody on occasions, but the day I visited, it was evidently at a manic high point. Aromas of salted almond, yellow plum, honey and flowers suggest a combination of advanced, faintly botrytised ripeness with vivid, crushed stone minerality, and that is precisely what gets poured over the palate as well, in full, deep, yet invigorating waves. The finishing persistence of mineral salts, spices, plum pits, toasted nut oils, and wood smoke paves the palate in custardy, honeyed fruit as well as a firm, densely dusty bed of crushed stones. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300