Classic sweet pea and rose petal aromas rise from the glass of Bursin 2007 Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle, which the caresses the palate creamily yet with flatteringly juicy pineapple, lime, and yellow plum and an admirable sense of buoyancy. Celery root, smoked meat, and brown spices add complexity to this subtly off-dry rendition of Gewurztraminer that should keep well for at least 6-8 years. Agathe Bursin – for more about whom consult issue 175 – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents, as witness her surprisingly fine showing in the difficult 2006 vintage. Bursin’s 2007 vintage Rieslings are comparatively firm, though they may well blossom short-term, and as usual she has scored impressive results with Gewurztraminer.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29
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