It seems like yesterday that Ric Forman began his career, yet he is now one of California's veteran wine-makers. From his early days (nearly 20 years ago) at Sterling he has built an impressive resume. The proprietor of beautiful vineyards tucked high in the hills between the Silverado Trail and Conn Valley, he has launched a new wine, a Merlot from a vineyard called Thorvilos, that he developed along with the well-known viticulturist, David Abreu. The 1995, which had just finished malolactic fermentation, blew me away, but the wine will not be in the marketplace for several years. The 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon is beginning to shut down and reveal more tannin. Some of the baby fat and thickness have taken a back seat to the wine's more structured aspects. Rich and full-bodied, it is less flattering and showy than when I first tasted it. It possesses outstanding concentration, as well as the potential for 20+ years of evolution. Tel. (707) 963-0234; Fax (707) 963-5384