The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is wonderfully supple and fragrant. Silky tannins frame a core of expressive dark red fruit. Floral and spice notes are nicely woven throughout. This textured, gracious Cabernet Sauvignon should continue to age gracefully for another 7-10 years, but it is awfully good right now. The blend includes 7% Merlot and 1.5% Cabernet Franc in 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. I was very impressed with the wines I tasted at Chateau Montelena. Bo Barrett and his team are going for a food-friendly style. They certainly appear to be succeeding in the endeavor. The signature wines are the Chardonnay and the two Cabernet Sauvignons. The Chardonnay is fermented in steel and aged in oak with no malolactic fermentation or less stirring. There is no question the Chardonnay can age, but personally, I am not sure the wines improve beyond age ten or so, at least not markedly. The Cabernet Sauvignon Estate typically includes 2% or so of Cabernet Franc. The Cabernet Sauvignon is made from purchased fruit and incorporates small amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Barrett describes 2008 as a tough vintage for Cabernet Sauvignon. Frost and shatter were an issue earlier in the year, while temperatures rose dramatically later in the summer. Barrett is much higher on 2009 because it presented virtually no problems. Tel. (707) 942-5105

Appealing for its complex cedar and dried berry fruit, with touches of tobacco and loamy earth, but this leaves you hoping for a little more focus and purity of flavor. Drink now through 2020. 18,600 cases made. –JL