A classy, well-made wine, with pastry crust and red pencil-eraser aromas and a chalky, dusty mouthfeel. On the palate, there’s ripe, juicy plum fruit and chewy tannins, all of which persists through the finish. That I don’t mention auxiliary flavor nuances doesn’t mean that the wine has nothing else going on—it just means that the fruit and the texture, really, is what you most notice.——D.T.(9/1/2004)—— 89