Von Winning-Dr. Deinhard Deidesheimer Grainhubel Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Pfalz, Germany

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The 2007 Deidesheimer Grainhubel Riesling Spatlese trocken might prove to be among the last wines so-labeled, as the intention is to in future offer the wine of Grain (that portion of Gainhubel owned almost entirely by the Dr. Deinhard estate) as Grosses Gewachs. Creamed corn, fish stock, and chalk are among the rather striking key notes in this wine that aptly illustrates this terroir’s proven ability to render Riesling of considerable stuffing and textural allure allied to refreshing acidity and lift. The luscious fruit and intriguingly smoky, chalky, and saline finishing elements should keep you enthrall for a decade or more. Portions of this site were never rebuilt and represent ancient plantings, explains Attmann (whose youth and newness to the job of Pfalz winery director ought not lead one to expect inexperience in Pfalz vineyard and wine lore; on the contrary, he’s obviously been a passionate, sponge-like student of them). The estate will replant nearby parcels in unusually tight spacing with vines propagated from these old selections. The late 2007 purchase of the Dr. Deinhard (a.k.a. VON WINNING) estate by entrepreneur Achim Niederberger – who already owned Bassermann-Jordan and von Buhl, with which it was once one – has brought rapid changes, most notably the arrival at the estate’s helm of Stefan Attmann (former wine merchant and consummate wine geek with a degree in marketing) who is – to put it mildly – a gifted young man on a mission and full of stimulating ideas. His and Niederberger’s specific notions for the reorganization of the estate and its line of wines had not yet entirely gelled when I tasted a subset of their 2007s, a collection whose outcome at this address they were not able to influence until after its harvest. That said, my visit found Attmann still working with long-time cellar master Kurt Rathgeber who – along with now-retired director Heinz Bauer – rendered much more delicious and interesting (if unabashedly old-fashioned) wine than a great many German critics were willing to credit them. Many of the Deinhard 2007s were only selected by the importer to offer this Spring, by which point I had no time to go back and taste those that I had missed while visiting the estate. The ostensibly top dry wines from 2008 will be bottled under the label Weingut von Winning (from the name of an early 20th Century owner by marriage) which beginning this year has becomes the new official name for the winery, with Dr. Deinhard as a sub-label.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300