The 2004 Deidesheimer Grainhubel Riesling Spatlese trocken, of “higher” Pradikat and “nobler” terroir, is nevertheless not as delicious a wine as its liter-bottled predecessor. Still, this dry Spatlese offers a subtly satisfying, brothy, rich Chablis-like saturation of meat and mineral flavors on the palate. Notes of cherry pit and peach are also not inconsistent with Chablis, and it would be most interesting to put this wine in a blind tasting. I strongly suspect we will taste more depth and complexity in another year. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300