Melsheimer Reiler Mullay Hofberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb A P #19

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1590

The 2009 Reiler Mullay-Hofberg Riesling Kabinett feinherb A.P. #19 began life as the same crop of Riesling that informs the A.P. #16, but this lot fermented much more slowly and had only been bottled a week before I arrived to taste it. Scents of buddleia and apple blossom are apprehended through a slight post-fermentative veil. A hidden, subtle sweetness of summer squashes is complimented by a waxy texture, and this finishes with satisfying length though not the expressive fruit of the corresponding A.P. #16. I suspect it needs a few months to recover from bottling but has the right stuff for at least 5-7 years aging. I found an unabashedly sweet rendition of Reiler Mullay-Hofberg Riesling Kabinett obscured by its residual sugar as well as by fermentative overtones. I was so fascinated by the highly distinctive wines I tasted last year from organic pioneer Melsheimer (reported on in issue 187, where I also describe some of the many sites he cultivates) that I felt compelled to return. Unfortunately, he was abroad selling for the entire time that I spent in Germany, but I visited and tasted a substantial portion of the 2009 collection with his family. Several dry wines, including some he considers among his top lots were, however, in too unfinished a state even in September for him to be willing to show them to me, and it is to be expected that some of his 2009s will only be offered for sale next year. So far, I have tasted relatively few older Melsheimer wines, and they are all conspicuously (I mean sensorially, not merely on paper) low in sulfur, so I prefer to be both conservative and vague in any prognoses of age-ability.Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799