The 2004 Riesling Schlossberg smells of peach, pineapple, marzipan, and smoky intimations of botrytis. In something of a departure for their Riesling from this steep, granite site, both the 2005 and 2004 vintages of Albert Mann were not only touched by significant botrytis, but also finished with 10-12 grams residual sugar. Nevertheless, this sugar quite unobtrusively supports the lush, ripe peach and pineapple fruit, creamy texture, and spicy, honeyed cast of the 2004, whose finish displays real grip and a positively tactile, Wachau-like sense of minerality beneath its lust fruit. This powerful yet elegant Riesling with its combination of richness with clarity and refreshment is an utterly remarkable value that can be enjoyed for well more than a decade. (The Barthelme’s 1988 – their first Schlossberg – is still a joy to drink today. And it was never as rich or concentrated as this 2004.)
In the nearly two decades since this domaine was consolidated, the Barthelme brothers – Jacky and Maurice – have maintained their position near the forefront of Alsace viticulture, farming a range of relatively far-flung and outstanding vineyards, as well as offering excellent value virtually throughout their range. The Barthelmes are especially enthusiastic about their 2004s – and with good reason – wines whose honeyed richness and generosity of fruit sometimes make for vintage character more recognizable than that of the grape variety. The brothers believe that the strength of 2005 lies in nobly sweet wines (not all of which I have yet tasted). But when asked about what it was like to optimize these vintages, Maurice Barthelme gestured to his increasingly bald head! The brothers are very conscious of the need to promote ripeness while inhibiting sugar-retention and hard at work experimenting with ways (including certain bio-dynamic practices) they think might solve this arguably definitive wine growing dilemma of our time. (Inexplicably, Barthelmes did not sample me on their Riesling from the Rosenberg, and I apologize for having realized this omission too late to remedy it.) The Barthelme brothers have continued a serious passion for Pinot Noir, their parcels in the Hengst having been joined by a tiny plot of forty year old vines in Eguisheim’s Pfersigberg and one recent planting elsewhere. Wines from both of these new plots were promisingly concentrated and fresh-fruited in 2005, although somewhat over-burdened (at least at this early stage) by their respective loads of wood.
Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800
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