Ratti’s 2011 Dolcetto d’Alba Colombe is super-impressive. A vein of tannin keeps the fruit suspended in a tight-wire act that balances fruit, acidity and minerality beautifully. Blueberries, tar, licorice and melted road tar are all layered into the pure, long finish. The Colombe is a serious Dolcetto with plenty of tannin to pair beautifully with rich foods. This is a striking wine from Pietro Ratti. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770