The 2006 Controguerra Riserva Lumen (70% Montepulciano, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon) is another super-ripe, dense wine but here the fruit seems better suited to elevage in French oak. Clean mineral notes frame blackberries, graphite, spices, flowers and grilled herbs. The tannins turn imposing on the finish, but all of the elements are in perfect balance for the Lumen to develop into a gorgeous wine. This large-scaled, expressive red is a fabulous effort from Illuminati. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Illuminati makes some of the most extroverted, rich Montepulcianos readers are likely to come across. Importer: Tricana Imports, Plainview, NY; tel. (516) 935-4080