The 2003 Controguerra Riserva Lumen (70% Montepulciano, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon) is a weighty, seamless red loaded with super-ripe dark blueberries, minerals and French oak. Mint, spice, tar and leather overtones come to life on the long, pure finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. This is a beautiful set of wines from Dino Illuminati, a producer who favors a distinctly ripe, fruit-driven style that is enhanced by the use of French oak for the top wines. Importer: Tricana Imports, Plainview, NY; tel. (516) 935-4080