Weingut Toni Jost Hahnenhof Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Mittelrhein, Germany

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The Josts’ 2010 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Spatlese trocken delivers lime, grapefruit, and apple in refreshingly juicy abundance, yet with attractive palate glossiness. There is greater sheer length here than in the corresponding “Devon S” bottling and one has an impression of welcome transparency of finishing fruit yet, as with that sibling, at most the faintest wet stone suggestion of anything mineral. Still, the balance here is impeccable and nobody can say that de-acidification has robbed the wine of vintage-typical brightness. I would tentatively plan on enjoying this over the next 3-4 years, though by then it might well demonstrate a few more years’ potential. Jost’s musts - largely from late October picking - were all double-salt de-acidified, and certain lots, including the Grosse Gewachse from both Mittelrhein and Rheingau, also underwent malo-lactic transformation in the course of unusually long fermentations. “We should culture and sell whatever powerful bacteria managed this,” notes Cecilia Jost jocularly, considering the low-pH medium in which they worked even after double-salt treatment. High acids also prompted some experiments in extended lees exposure and skin contact, though I fancy the latter might in some instances have accentuated a tendency toward bitterness. (Cecelia Jost had acquired some experience with all of these approaches from her time in New Zealand.) Residual sugar was left higher, and alcohol lower than usual in the majority of these 2010s.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463