The NV Brut Rose Premier Cru is an exotic, captivating wine blessed with gorgeous inner perfume and complex fruit, but today it is quite closed, most likely owing to its relatively recent disgorgement. Pomegranate, roses, minerals and berries are some of the nuances that emerge over time. This serious, powerful rose shows remarkable breed and class; I loved it. The blend of 55% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 15% still Pinot Meunier is unusual, but it works. This is Lot LRSA, disgorged: June, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016 Aubry doesn’t seem to get much attention in hard-core Champagne circles, but make no mistake about it; these are some of the most unique wines being made in the region today. It is hard to go wrong with any of these fine new releases. Readers should note that the Sable Le Nombre d’Or wines are bottled with a liqueur de tirage that contains about 16 grams of sugar, instead of the more customary 24 or so, which results in a lower pressure Champagne. The lower pressure style yields wines with very fine and small bubbles, not to mention tons of class.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The NV Brut Rose is classy and elegant through and through. It shows lovely energy and focus in its freshly cut sweet roses, red berries and minerals. All of the aromas and flavors flow gracefully from this tense, precise Rose. Floral notes add further brightness and polish on the striking finish. This is a terrific showing. The estate’s Rose is 45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 15% Meunier, which is blended in as still red wine, an unusual approach that works beautifully here. This release is 100% 2008 juice. Disgorged July 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Aubry is one of the most intriguing producers in Champagne because the wines are so expressive. Maybe it is the inclusion of Champagne’s ancient varieties in some of these blends, or the low atmosphere style of some of the wines, or maybe it’s just the personality of the Aubry brothers themselves, but I always find so many admirable qualities in these wines.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Raspberry pink in color, this is in the celebratory style of rose, all red berry fruits and summer days. The balance is just right, the extra richness of a rose teaming well with the acidity.——R.V.(12/1/2008)—— 89