CARM Casa Agricola Roboredo Madeira Grande Reserva, Douro, Portugal

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The 2008 Grande Reserva is mostly a Touriga Nacional (85%) with 10% Touriga Franca and 5% Tinta Roriz, partly oak fermented and then aged in French oak for 12 months. It promises to keep in this vintage and it has a pretty good chance to improve notably in the cellar. It was far too marked with sweet oak, especially on opening, despite the relatively modest oak aging. It became a distraction on the nose and the finish, the wine saved (and then some!) by a lovely, reasonably concentrated mid-palate and beautiful, harmonious structure. This focused wine has both finesse and a backbone, but not an overwhelming one. Its balance is impeccable but for those oak issues, which should resolve reasonably well. This seems to me to have upside potential, largely dependent on its absorption of the oak, something necessary to make it seem less generic, less straightforward. It has an excellent chance to do so. It was certainly better in a couple of hours than it was on opening. Give it 2 to 3 years to calm down and it should improve considerably. Drink 2013-2022. Importer: Grape Moments, a Division of Sintra Imports, New Bedford, MA; tel. (508) 997-0100