This Riesling is right on the borderline of dry/off-dry (just under 1% RS). The fruit, from cooler Willamette Valley vineyard sites, has been fermented in stainless steel and aged on its lees, yielding a wine that is thick, almost meaty. It’s as sappy as a fresh peach, and finishes with crisp peach-skin phenolics. All-in-all this is a surprising wine, neither simple nor plain, but full-flavored in the comforting style that seems almost to have vanished from the Northwest.——P.G.(11/15/2007)—— 89