The 2008 Chardonnay Clare is the most restrained and closed offering in this group. Also made from an old Wente clone in the well-known Hyde Vineyard in Carneros, it exhibits a stony, Corton-Charlemagne-like personality filled with notions of white currants, quince, crushed rocks and lemon oil. The wine possesses zesty acidity, a big, full-bodied mouthfeel and terrific purity, texture and length. Give it another 6-12 months of bottle age and enjoy it over the following decade.
I would have to rank DuMol as one of my favorite half dozen producers of California Chardonnay as well as one of the top twenty in terms of Pinot Noir. Moreover, their Syrah program is also impressive. For unknown reasons, I did not get to taste any Viognier, which I have also loved. The 2008 Chardonnays are all performing as well if not better than they did from barrel last year. Winemaker Andy Smith told me that both he and proprietor Kerry Murphy believe 2009 is their best vintage yet for Pinot Noir, which is certainly saying something. The 2009s do look impressive, but at this early stage, I would not rate them higher than several other recent vintages. That, of course, is debatable given the fact that just about everything at this winery has been stellar since I first started tasting them.
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