The two 1991s were interesting to taste and compare with the riper, richer 1990 vintage. I am concerned that the 1991 Stielle Vino da Tavola (a blend of 60-70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30-40% Sangiovese) may be too austere and tannic for its own good. The aging in new oak has sweetened some of the tannin, but this deep ruby-colored wine (with some amber at the edge), while dense and powerful, does display high tannin and a compressed personality. It is tightly-knit, and despite the mature-looking color, seemingly unevolved and backward. Whether or not it comes together and gains more fruit at the expense of the tannin will be determined after a few more years of bottle age. I tend to believe the wine will dry out before it ever blossoms. Nevertheless, it is certainly a good effort.
Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200