The wine tastes and feels important. It has great weight and depth. The tannins are extraordinarily thick, but ripe and smoothly sweet. And then there’s the fruit, a detonation of blackberries, cherries, blueberries and cassis, not to mention the oak, which seems as fine as oak gets. This superb wine seems like an obvious cellar candidate. It should ride out the decade effortlessly. ——S.H.(5/1/2011)—— 93