Far more interesting is Grahm’s 2007 Syrah Bien Nacido. Attractive bacon/lard notes intermixed with creme de cassis and tapenade, are present in this dark ruby/purple-tinged wine. Built with more power, intensity, and muscle, yet at the same time retaining its elegance, this is a wine that should drink nicely for up to a decade. It’s good to see the highly commercial Randall Grahm finally get more serious about wine quality. Of course, he long ago laughed his way to the bank, selling hundreds of thousands of cases, promoting “terroir” while making massive quantities of commercial wines that had little evidence of any serious terroir or character. However, he seems to have found religion over the last few years. Graham has decided to offer his Cigare Volant, a California take on France’s Chateauneuf du Pape, in three formats – his regular cuvee, one aged in large, presumably old wood foudres, and one aged in smaller demi-muids (which are still bigger than conventional barrels). All three are worth buying and drinking. Each is a blend of 60% Grenache, 32% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre and Cinsault.Tel. (888) 819-6789

With an official alcohol of only 13.5%, this is one of the leanest Syrahs ever to emerge from this famous vineyard. It’s bone dry, zingy in acidity and tannic, and the cherry and berry flavors flirt with earthier notes of tobacco and dried Provencal herbs. Feels narrow gauge at first, but grows in the glass as it airs, becoming increasingly elegant and interesting.——S.H.(11/1/2011)—— 91