Much better is the dark ruby/purple-tinged 2005 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard, which reveals classic graphite, tapenade, tar, and black cherry and currant notes. Although relatively lean in style, it possesses good depth, tannin, and purity. It should open over the next year, and drink well for 5-6 years.Bonny Doon's charismatic proprietor, Randall Grahm, has sold some of his larger production assets in order to refocus on the quality of his wines (which were so promising in the mid-1980s, before he turned his winery into an industrial-sized fruit plant). It is too early to tell whether this will result in higher quality wines. The current releases were made while Grahm was turning out mega-quantities of other wines.Tel. (831) 425-4518

An interesting and complex young Syrah that really needs bottle age to show its best. It’s very fruity, offering a blast of currants and pepper, but also pretty astringent in bitter tannins. Grilled meats will help, and so will decanting, as the wine does change and soften in the glass, but it will be better by the 2009 summer barbecue season and for several years after. ——S.H.(12/15/2008)—— 89