The 2006 Riesling trocken Grauschiefer - combining fruit from the high-elevation, grey slate Erdener Herrenberg with a bit of Treppchen - smells pungently of citrus zest, wood smoke, and crushed stone (plus no doubt a whiff of botrytis). Quite voluminous for a Mosel Riesling (and with 13% alcohol), it nevertheless avoids heat, and stays marginally refreshing thanks to its acidity, although the finish is a tad bitter. While not the most successful example of this bottling, it's a tribute to Schmitges- intuitions to work the Herrenberg as well as to his skill that it has turned out this versatile and satisfying. Plan to drink it up by mid-2010. A dry Kabinett picked early from the coolest corners of Treppchen where at least some of the fruit was still gold-green proved pleasant but marginally under-ripe in flavor despite its 12% alcohol, and the corresponding dry Spatlese was ripe finished uncomfortably warm. A measure of the advantages of a small, ambitious family winery with lots of local connections, Schmittges was able to pick his entire crop in just nine days.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544.