The Kesselstatt 2007 Braunenberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese follows the corresponding Josefshofer in a rather nut-paste or nougat-like direction, here accompanied by scents and flavors of quince and poached pear. Subtle suggestions of toast and wet stone add interest to a creamily-textured palate, and while this finishes with evident and almost Mosel-atypical low acidity, it is impressively soothing and persistent. I suspect it may be best enjoyed on the young side for its genre, which simply means within the coming decade. A protracted harvest is almost bound to be especially beneficial for an estate with such enormous and widely-scattered vine acreage as that of von Kesselstatt. The acidity in this year’s collection is almost uniformly ripe, and often noticeably low. As usual, a certain austerity accrues to a fair share of Kesslestatt’s many trocken Rieslings (wines from whose labels the last vestiges of Pradikat designations have now disappeared), but happily, alcoholic heat was scarcely a problem here this year. Interestingly, the Saar wines among these were generally especially successful regardless of style. Annegret Reh’s plan in the Kabinett segment, incidentally, is to eventually eliminate the redundancy of having both feinherb (successors to former halbtrocken) and unabashedly sweet bottlings from a single site, but instead work in the direction of merely discreet – i.e. feinherb – sweetness for most of the estate’s Kabinetts. In a sweet style, the Kesselstatt Kabinetts have consistently represented excellent values with ready market-availability, whereas few of the drier Kabinetts (and virtually none of the estate’s trocken Rieslings) seem to make it to the U.S.Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel (918) 622-0424.