The 2010 Dolcetto d’Alba Vigna del Mandorlo is a big, dark wine bursting with fruit. This is an especially brooding, virile Dolcetto that needs to be paired with food. Violets, tar and scorched earth are some of the notes that add complexity to the blueberry and blackberry fruit. The finish shows notable grip and energy, adding tons of personality and sheer character. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno continue to do fabulous work. Cogno is one of the very finest estates in Piedmont, yet somehow remains under the radar. Every wine I tasted this year was brilliant, but the Baroli in particular are magnificent. The wines are made in a fairly traditional style, which means they need bottle age, even at the entry-level. Native yeasts, lengthy submerged-cap macerations, and a reliance on large, neutral oak casks for the top Baroli are the rule. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200