The 2008 Dolcetto d’Alba is a pretty, mid-weight wine with attractive varietal aromas and flavors. This refined red is as good a Dolcetto as readers are likely to come across in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. This is an outstanding set of new releases from Cogno, one of Piedmont’s under the radar stars. Proprietors Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno are doing great work at their small, family-run property. From top to bottom, all of these wines merit your attention. The Barolos in particular are special. Fermentation is done with the traditional submerged cap method and the wines stay in contact with the skins for an additional two weeks or so, taking the total time of fermentation/maceration to roughly 30 days, a bit longer than had been the case in the recent past. Like many estates in Piedmont, Cogno has increased the amount of large, neutral oak used for the Barolos and is relying less on small French oak barrels.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Here is a ripe Dolcetto d’Alba with mature aromas of raspberry, strawberry and cherry syrup. The wine is rich and dense in the mouth with a sweet berry aftertaste that would pair well with meatloaf or beef stew.——M.L.(4/1/2010)—— 86