Vintners in Friuli have been so fundamentally offended by the fact they can no longer use the name Tocai Friulano for its flagship white grape (now officially called Friulano). It's a long story that pits Northern Italy against Hungary (home to Tocaji), but the simmering anger still lingers. That's the sentiment that I suspect went into naming this wine, the Livon 2018 Collio Friulano Manditocai. Notice how "Tocai" gets worked in regardless. Packaged in its distinctive bottle with a triangular top, this release of 6,600 bottles is very true to Friulano, revealing some distant bitterness and nuttiness that is specific to this wine. Fruity notes of apricot and baked apple settle in at the back, defining an unapologetic expression to be enjoyed with a grilled Slovenian trout.
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