The succulent, juicy 2004 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett smells alluringly of nectarine and lime, along with hints of wet stones, salts and cherry that put one in mind of Saar Riesling. On the delicate yet expansively flavored palate this is lip-smackingly invigorating in its combination of fresh fruits, fruit skin, and mineral notes. The lime and nectarine, along with tangerine zest and slate essence, make for a compelling finish. Not many years ago, August Kesseler was vinifying – in addition to the Pinot Noirs for which he has long been known – almost entirely dry Rieslings that were seldom seen outside Germany. Nowadays, he is reveling in residually sweet Rieslings and has launched an aggressive export program with the intention of becoming a major force in the U.S. market. Given the amazing price/quality rapport of some of the wines I tasted, he should succeed brilliantly in that endeavor.Various importers including: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (800) 362-4420; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; tel. (50) 236-9370

This is crisp and smooth initially, a backdrop for the peach, apple and mineral flavors, turning mealy on the finish. It's more textural than negative, and the finish is long. Drink now through 2012.??–BS??Region: Germany / Rheingau Select to Add