The Barmes-Buecher 2006 Pinot Noir Reserve – which incorporates the four barrels’ worth of Hengst Pinot that were separated-out in 2007, and which, like many other Pinots of this vintage, was clearly harvested ahead of encroaching rot – smells enticingly of brown-spiced wild cherry, red raspberry, and rose hip, which come tartly and refreshingly to a relatively delicate but silken-textured palate. This is all about perfume and vivacity, giving an almost white wine-like account of itself for which some tasters will no doubt have difficulty working up much enthusiasm. Those who do should plan to enjoy it over the next couple of years. There is as usual a lot of fascinating wine in Francois Barmes’ constantly shifting, hugely diverse as well as just plain huge 2007 collection, though the level of success was on the whole consistent. As in the past, though, I remained relatively unconvinced by Barmes’ way with Pinot Gris, despite its being a grape that elsewhere revealed special potential in 2007. I can’t say 2006 here represents an advertisement for Barmes’ conscientious and long-standing biodynamic practices, but then, in a year of rampant rot, surely the absence of anti-botrytis sprays has to have been sorely felt at many biodynamic estates. There were a couple of 2006s here too fungal to recommend, with the majority of what was a reduced line-up meriting mild recommendation provided they are drunk-up soon.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29
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