The barrel-aged Barbera of the house, in this case the 2000 Barbera d’Alba, does not receive much publicity, but it is a winner. Sweet, jammy and spicy, its intense ruby tonality and ample, ripe flavors provide much immediate gratification and will continue to do so until 2010. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411