The 2005 Riesling Saering smells of narcissus, sage, and parsnip; offers a satiny texture and sappy, mouth-filling intensity of apple, parsnip, sage, and ginger; and clings impressively with saline minerality, and tactile chalkiness and herbal pungency. This formidably-concentrated, dry, somewhat youthfully austere Riesling needs at least 3-5 years in bottle and should evolve interestingly for many thereafter, although the record suggests that Saering Riesling goes through mood swings and inexpressive phases.So enormous is the range of wines nowadays grown at the combined Dirler and Cade domaine that I did not have the time to taste them all. (All of those I did taste are at least mentioned in the text.) Along with the involvement of the new generation – Jean Dirler and his wife Ludivine (nee Cade) – the entire domaine has been farmed biodynamically since 1998 (and parts of the Kessler and Kitterle with horse), a factor the family thinks especially beneficial given the climatic extremes that have prevailed in recent years. Riesling and Pinot Gris are generally fermented in foudre here, and other whites usually in tank. Very few families of Alsace wine have exhibited long-term the consistent quality and age-ability one can expect of those bottled under the Dirler name.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
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