The 2004 Riesling Saering smells brightly and enticingly citric and floral, combines broth-like herbal-mineral richness and refreshing, ripe citrus and cherry on the texturally rich palate, and finishes with winsome, lithe juiciness, impressive refinement, superb clarity, and distinctive chalky, alkaline, saline mineral notes. Impeccably balanced and – dare I say? – “classically” dry, this beauty should hold well for a decade or more, but is apt to become more expressive sooner than its Kessler or Spiegel stable mates. So enormous is the range of wines nowadays grown at the combined Dirler and Cade domaine that I did not have the time to taste them all. (All of those I did taste are at least mentioned in the text.) Along with the involvement of the new generation – Jean Dirler and his wife Ludivine (nee Cade) – the entire domaine has been farmed biodynamically since 1998 (and parts of the Kessler and Kitterle with horse), a factor the family thinks especially beneficial given the climatic extremes that have prevailed in recent years. Riesling and Pinot Gris are generally fermented in foudre here, and other whites usually in tank. Very few families of Alsace wine have exhibited long-term the consistent quality and age-ability one can expect of those bottled under the Dirler name.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
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