The outstanding 1996 Pinot Noir Estate is similar to the Goldridge Vineyard offering, with more glycerin, a sweeter black cherry/kirsch component, roasted herb characteristics, full body, 14.5% alcohol, superb purity, and a nicely-layered, chewy texture. This wine should drink well for 5-7 years.Dehlinger is a top-notch albeit somewhat unheralded source for delicious Pinot Noir. While some of the new Dijon clones have been planted (particularly Clone 777), Dehlinger's Pinots are all from such old California clones (which originally came from Burgundy) as Martini, Swan, and Pommard. There can be as many as four separate Pinot Noirs if Dehlinger decides to produce a Reserve bottling, as he did in 1994 and 1997. In 1996, there are three efforts, Goldridge Vineyard (1,150 cases), Estate (990 cases), and Octagon Vineyard (140 cases). What is so likable about the Dehlinger Pinot Noirs is that they are made in a richly fruity, chocolatey style with plenty of spice, plush textures, and copious quantities of glycerin and alcohol. They are both user-friendly and faithful to the varietal's trademark.Tel. (707) 823-2378; Fax (707) 823-0918.