Weingut Theo Minges Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett, Pfalz, Germany

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Scents of honeysuckle, basswood, fennel pollen, and mint fetchingly mark the nose of Minges’ 2009 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett, setting the stage for a coolly restrained but at the same time brightly refreshing palate performance. Persistent inner-mouth florality is complimented by the wine’s prominent sweetness – in turn offset by bitter hints of citrus rind and invigorating salinity – and it finishes with a delightful sense of lift. This ought to be worth following for at least the better part of a decade. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300