Weingut Theo Minges Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett, Pfalz, Germany

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Lime, honeydew melon, and apricot are the rather vintage-typical key notes of Minges’ 2008 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett, whose lush, waxy texture and luscious fruit is underscored by judicious residual sugar, while the tartness of lime and apricot skin and bitterness of apricot kernel supply counterpoint and add to the invigoration of the finish. This should serve well for at least 8-10 years. Many of this year’s Minges wines were allowed to ferment spontaneously. “It stopped fermenting where it wanted to,” remarked Theo Minges, about one of several wines that did not go dry as they probably would have with cultured yeasts, adding that he’s being influenced now by the success of his exercise in wine-making passivity known as the “Froschkonig” (for more about which consult my review of that wine in issue 185). Regina Minges was keen to point out that the relatively low alcohol and delicate refreshment achieved in particular at the lower end of the price scale reflects an early November harvest.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300