Both Morey St.-Denis premier crus are superb. The Les Chaffots is a highly extracted, deep ruby/purple-colored wine that will benefit from 3-5 years of cellaring. It reveals some of the tannic structure that is so much a part of the 1993 vintage, but the sweet extraction of fruit and chewy richness balance the tannin. This complex wine (of grand cru quality) should last for 12-15 years. Along with the wines from Domaine Leroy, Domaine Maurice and Claude Dugat, and Domaine Ponsot, the other unequivocal great successes in 1993 are the wines of Hubert Lignier. His wines are atypically super-concentrated, powerful, rich, sweet, expansive red Burgundies that exhibit the structure, but none of the harsh tannins of many 1993s. Moreover, they possess layers of highly extracted, rich, creamy fruit that could only have come from physiologically ripe grapes and low yields.
Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyard, New York, NY; tel. (212) 249-6650
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