The 2008 Pilgrim Syrah/Mourvedre/Grenache Waiheke “GSM” has a plush, spicy bouquet with an agreeable volatile lift that lends it a Mediterranean feel, accompanied by aromas of crushed stone, blackberry leaf, black plum and then boysenberry jam, all with superb definition. The palate is full-bodied with fine tannins, well balanced and very approachable with slightly lower acidity, rounded and supple with a touch of black pepper on the smooth, sensuous finish. This is an excellent, ambitious GSM that should age well over 4-6 years. Drink 2012-2018. Stonyridge Vineyards, one of the founding fathers of Waiheke, continues to produce some of the idyllic island’s benchmark wines, most notably its flagship “Larose”. Founder Stephen White told me that 2009 was blessed with an Indian summer that compensated for ominous cool, cloudy weather earlier in the season. Given its renown, Stonyridge remains an artisan producer: just 1,500 case of the Larose are produced each year. But their entry-level “Fallen Angel” range is well worth seeking out with some well-crafted white varietals. Importer: Golden State Wine Co., Van Nuys, CA; tel. (800) 266-WINE