The 2004 Shiraz l’Explorateur’s opaque ruby/purple color is accompanied by an opulent, creamy mouthfeel, sweet tannin, loads of richness and concentration, and a heady, smooth finish. This velvety-textured, character-filled Shiraz should drink well for a decade.Importer: Commonwealth Wines & Spirits, Mansfield, MA; tel. (508) 261-9300

A wine that evolves through a few phases while in the glass, each more odd than the last. Starts off with a sold berry-and cream profile, straightforward and accessible. With time, the nose turns tomato-y, and the palate bubblegum-sweet, then a little green. Well made, but odd.——D.T.(6/1/2006)—— 86