Randall Grahm’s hommage to Chateauneuf-du-Pape has a lovely nose of plums, menthol, spice and leather. It’s soft and mouthfilling, but has a slight bitter edge to its fruit. If the promise of the extraordinarily complex nose were matched on the palate, we’d have liked it even more.——W.E.(11/1/1999)—— 88