The 1998 Provignage is crafted entirely from a pre-phylloxera vineyard planted with Romorantin in 1840. A rarely seen varietal, research suggests only 386 acres of Romorantin are planted in the world, 95% of which are located in the Loire's little-known Cour-Cheverny appellation. I tasted this virtually clear wine over a four hour period to see how it would be affected by air. Initially it bursts forth from the glass with fresh mango, honeysuckle, and red lollipop aromas. With aeration the nose maintains its vivacity yet its scents are transformed into raspberries. On the palate it reveals light-to-medium body, a satiny texture, and a powerful, full-flavored core of raspberries intermingled with sea shells, iodine, and minerals. This is an outstanding wine (not an oddity), with complexity, depth, and enormous length. If the four hours of aeration it received are any indicator, it should develop well with cellaring. Projected maturity: now-2005+.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel(610) 486-0800.
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