A portion of Lafon’s 2005 Monthelie Les Duresses spent time in tank on the ground floor of the winery to encourage malo-lactic fermentation, and was afterward returned to barrel. This offers bright aromas and flavors of black raspberry sorbet, brown spice and fungal complexities and a fine sense of chalkiness, all of this rather reminiscent of Volnay. The tannins are abundant but fine. A tart fruit skin edge and faintly bitter black chocolate character in the finish offer satisfying counterpoint with the wine’s fresh fruit. I would plan on enjoying this beauty at 5-7 years age. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70; A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040