An outstanding wine, the cassis liqueur and blackberry jam-scented 2002 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques reveals a medium-bodied personality crammed with syrupy black cherries, crisp red currants, and spices. Exhibiting admirable depth and an excellent structure, this appears to be the style of wine that will close down for a few years before roaring back. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802. Readers should note that Vincent Girardin also bottles some of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label, imported by Eric Solomon (European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. 704-358-1565)