A 2008 Hallgartener Jungfer Riesling Kabinett – like Prinz’s dry Schonhell Kabinett of this vintage – took advantage of multiple passes on the vineyards in an effort to insure low potential alcohol without garnering unripe flavors. The result is fresh, juicy, and relatively simple, featuring apple, pear and lime, and finishing with lift and delicacy if relative understatement. The effect of the acids and extract here has been to rein-in the wine’s perceived sweetness. I think this in the best possible sense “pretty” Riesling will be best-enjoyed over the next 3-4 years, although I am sure it will not implode immediately thereafter.
Given the humidity and threat from botrytis, said Fred Prinz, he made some test passes over selected parcels beginning on October 4, but then quickly stopped for a week, because it was evident that the fruit’s flavors were simply not ripe. Like a number of growers, he was perplexed by the very slow evolution of his 2008s as well as the time they took to recover from bottling.
Importers: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Magellan Wines, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544
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