After all these years, this is still one of the best and most distinctive Chards in Napa. Eschewing the fat, blowsy style, this wine is tightly wound and nervy, although there’s plenty of tropical fruit flavor and enough oak to satisfy. Lemony acidity shows up in the middle palate and lasts through the long finish, suggesting moderate aging possibilities. ——S.H.(12/15/2002)—— 91