The 2005 Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco reveals expressive aromatics and a lovely core of perfumed ripe fruit on a medium-bodied frame. The 2005 is made in the accessible style that is typical of the vintage, and I would choose to drink this wine before the 2004. It is an exceptional wine at this level. Proprietor Luca Currado doesn’t like the idea of a Barolo normale because he thinks it debases that wine, so he came up with Perbacco, which is made from the estate’s second selection of fruit from its multiple holdings across the region. The wine is given 23 months of oak aging prior to being bottled and released with just a few months of bottle age. It has all the hallmarks of a Barolo, but in miniature. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Vietti is one of the most historic properties in Piedmont. The estate is best known for its top-flight Barolos, yet in recent years I have been equally impressed with the entry-level wines. These are among the finest wines being made anywhere in Italy. The Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco, which is made from Barolo-classified vineyards, in particular, is one of the great values in wine today. Importer: Remy Cointreau USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 424-2204