Cantina Valpolicella Negrar Domini Veneti, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG, Italy

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From the cooperative’s most successful sub-brand, the 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Domini Veneti is a convincing expression of Valpolicella’s top red wine. This is a structured, if not overtly tannic wine, packed tight with dark fruit, blackberry preserves, black olive, barbecue smoke and moist chewing tobacco. You still get a sense of youthfulness here, despite the appassimento process. Drink 2015-2022. Cooperative wineries are often seen as the ugly ducklings of Italian wine. But the dynamic Cantina Valpolicella Negrar with 220 members who farm a total of 600 hectares is maturing into a graceful swan. The co-op is very active when it comes to experimentation with sustainable farming methods and innovative winemaking. I was absolutely captivated by the “Espressioni” set of wines – all Amarone from the 2005 vintage – that captures the essence of five townships: San Pietro in Cariano, Fumane, Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella, Marano di Valpolicella and Negrar. This set of wines offers a fascinating glimpse into the individual winemaking regions in the Valpolicella Classico zone. The “Espressoni” (Amarones Castelrotto, Mazzurega, Monte, San Rocco and Villa) make a strong argument for creating delineated subzones based on municipality like you find in other premier growing areas such as Barolo and Chianti Classico. Importer: Domini Veneti USA, www.cantinanegrar.it