Grown in a wide range of vineyards in Courgis and Prehy, Brocard’s 2008 Chablis Domaine Sainte Claire (of which there are several bottlings, but I tasted what remained in tank in April) displays an oily texture; iodine and smoke pungency; refreshing citricity; and lots of cut and energy. Its firmness as well as pronounced citrus, fruit pit, and mineral aspects make for a certain austerity, but hints of mint and cherry blossom emerging on the nose add some charm, and this clings with admirable clarity and invigoration, indeed its finishing intensity seems to rise-up quite late. This should prove versatile and fascinating to follow over the next 3-5 years.
Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) headed-up the Brocards’ 2008 efforts from start to finish, including a harvest that extended well into October, while Julien Brocard continues to up the percentage of acreage farmed biodynamically at this enormous property. (Tiny lady bugs and moons are scattered discreetly across the labels of those Brocard wines that issue from “bio” vineyards.) Due to time limitations, I did not taste the entire 2008 collection here, but every wine I tasted could be recommended and is included in this report.
Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400